Yanko Tyrolean derby dark brown suede

Traditional Tyrolean derby, in a lovely dark brown suede from the British tannery Charles F. Stead. Built on the W169 last with a roomy toe box. The shoe is sturdy and water resistant, with thick yet lightweight and comfortable Vibram Vi-Lite rubber soles. Norwegian welted construction, gusset tongue and a covered apron seam.

The Tyrolean derby dates back to the early 1900's and the Alp mountains in the region with the same name as the model. The French company Paraboot then popularised it with their model Michael, and if you are after shoes that are both practical and has a lot of character, this one's for you.

Part of our sturdier Yanko models that go through the factory a bit quicker and the level of finishing is a bit more basic, to keep the price as affordable as possible. But it's surely a lot of shoes for the money, and after all it's footwear that's meant to take a beating.

Construction:
The Norwegian welted construction method is a relatively advanced way of building shoes that requires a high level of craftsmanship, produces durable shoes that easily can be resoled several times. It's sort of a sibling construction to Goodyear welting, where the difference that the welt is folded up against the upper (sometimes upper is also folded outwards) and the welt stitch goes in from the outside, instead of from below the welt. This to be even more water resistant.
Learn all about the Goodyear welted shoe construction in this guide.

Below an image that gives an overview of the construction:

All shoes have leather board heel stiffeners (cheaper brands usually use harder plastic heel stiffeners) which adapt to your feet are used for all our shoes, except TLB Mallorca Artista and Midas which have real leather heel stiffeners, which can conform even better.

Leather:
All Norwegian and Goodyear welted shoes we offer use smooth full grain calf leather, quality embossed calf grain leather or fine calf suede from well-renowned European or American tanneries. Most of the leathers are sourced from Annonay, Du Puy, Ilcea, Zonta, Charles F. Stead or Horween.

Sole:
There are three different types of soles used for the Norwegian and Goodyear welted shoes we sell (under the tab Product details and on the photos you see which are used for respective model).

Leather sole - High quality, durable Super Prime soles vegetable tanned in Italy with among other things chestnut bark. Here the sole stitch is hidden inside a closed channel, a more time consuming operation that gives a cleaner look.

Thin rubber sole - A so-called city rubber sole with a slim profile just like a leather sole, with a rubber composition that offers good grip and excellent durability.

Rubber sole - In most cases these are Vibram's praised Eton studded rubber soles, which has a rubber compound that also can handle minus degrees, are comfortable yet highly durable.

Which shoe care products to use:
Before use, go over the shoes gently with a a suede brush followed by Saphir Medaille d'Or Super Invulner to protect from water and dirt. Use Saphir Medaille d'Or Suede Renovator Spray in Dark brown when the colour needs to be improved and to give some nourishment. For more thorough yet gentle cleaning we recommend Saphir Medaille d'Or Omninettoyant suede cleaner. We recommend using cedar wood shoe trees to prevent unnecessary creasing and extend the lifespan of your footwear.

Read more about how to use these products on the respective product pages, or in the shoe care guide linked below.

Basic shoe care:
- Don’t use the same pair for two consecutive days
- Brush / wipe the shoes off after use
- Use shoe trees and shoehorn
- Treat regular leather with shoe cream, treat suede and textile with waterproofing spray
Learn more on these steps in this guide.

Further shoe care info:
For more on how to clean, refresh and protect suede and nubuck, read this guide.